I want to preface this post with saying that I read a book last year by Malcolm Gladwell titled “Blink: The Power of Thinking Without Thinking”. The author’s theory was that our snap judgments and first impressions in the first two seconds of any experience are usually the most accurate. (I might reread Blink just to do a #RawReview & trust it’ll be worth the reread.)
Now to the matter at hand. Oh Dior mon cheri. 🤦🏾♀️
PSA 🗣 to Maria Chiuri: Your SS19 campaign ad as featured in Vogue’s February 2019 issue screamed “culture vultures” in those first two seconds as aforementioned. Both my snap judgment and my first impression said “See they really do want to be us.”
A quick background story on Maria Grazia Chiuri, currently serving as creative director of Dior. As of 2016 she was the first and only woman to lead the creative side of the Christian Dior in their entire 69 years of history. So you’d think that after allllllllll this time the lady would have thought to tread lightly, right? So y’all want the culture but not the struggle?
Back in October 2018, the second annual Forces of Fashion conference was held at Milk Studios (NYC) with same high price tag ($3,000) and the same level of A-list guests. Want to know what else was included with the $3k price tag, shoulder rubbing or hobnob with editor-in-chief and Condé Nast artistic director Anna Wintour.
This is just the beginning for Vogue though as their new strategy is based solely around selling access, experiences and style directly to readers beyond the pages of its magazine and website.
So how is it determined and who’s to say that their selection process is accurate, but fair?
Vogue holds the most valuable title in Condé Nast’s portfolio, and now the US edition is leveraging its authority in the eyes of brands and readers. Why? Oh but of course to generate revenue. According to BOF, it’s a challenging time for the publisher and new ways of generating revenue is the only option.
Vogue is in the process of rolling out a new membership programme for readers and the offerings will include exclusive content and access to the magazine’s editors and exclusive events. In other words, you’ve got to pay-to-play when it comes to our beloved Vogue.
Vogue’s Runway, an index of designers and brands, also formerly known as Style.com is now allowing brands and designers the opportunity to be featured alongside brands like Chanel and Gucci.
Joining the Vogue index is major deal for up and coming brands, as well as designers who in any other circumstance may have not had such an opportunity. Amazing right? Yup. But the concern for most is the $20,000 price tag and the pending approval from the Vogue’s editor that comes with it.
The question is “how bad does designers and brands really want their collection images featured?” Is there a $20k refund should the approval be denied? Stay tuned.
Wondering where I’ve been all this time. Apparently, now for $20,000 a year — and pending Vogue editor approval — a designer or brand can have their lookbook or collection images uploaded to Vogue’s Runway website and app twice annually, according to a term sheet reviewed by BoF.
What’s surprisingly interesting is that the option has been available for a minimum of three seasons, according to a source with knowledge of the publication’s strategy, and does not include reviews or other written content that come when you’ve been “chosen”.
My issue with the $20k price tag (outside of the obvious $20k price tag) is that a designer or brand can opt in and still be at a disadvantage simply because their lookbook or collection images aren’t reviewed and there’s no written content as with shows like Chanel and Gucci.